Recipe of the Day

Goat in Chile Marinade, Pit-Barbecue Style

 

Goat in Chile Marinade, Pit-Barbecue Style recipe

yield
8 to 10 servings (more for the lamb version)

Barbacoa de Cabrito

This goat barbecue typifies a style where the meat absorbs an adobo, a fragrant, spicy marinade of dried chiles and other seasonings.

I watched Zoyla Mendoza make this dish in her village, Teotitlán del Valle. Though she and her family can well afford to eat meat, they usually save it for special occasions, so they rejoiced when I asked them to teach me their favorite barbacoa. It was beautiful, breathing the scent of fresh avocado leaves and other herbs. The meat becomes unbelievably tender without drying out or getting mushy.

When I came back to my New York kitchen, I set to work to find other methods close to the tender savor of a true pit barbecue. For the type that Zoyla showed me, I feel the best results come from packing the marinated meat in a tightly covered pan just large enough to hold the ingredients and baking it for a long time in a moderate oven. A turkey roaster is good. If you don’t have a big enough pan with a tight-fitting lid, wrap several layers of aluminum foil very snugly around the pan to seal in the steam.

I make the barbacoa as Zoyla made it, with young goat (kid). Goat is available in some Greek, halalMuslim, and West Indian butcher shops and can sometimes be ordered from other butchers. Ask the butcher to cut it into quarters. Oaxacans always include and specially value the head, which has some extra-tender nuggets of meat. (This is optional for the doubting.) If goat is not available, lamb is the best substitute. At my restaurant, we use lamb shoulder. The dish can also be made with a whole fresh ham or a pot-roasting cut of beef such as round, though you may have to reduce the amount of marinade slightly and experiment with a shorter cooking time. Of course true pre-Hispanic barbacoa was made with turkey—not used as frequently nowadays, but still a notably authentic choice.

When the meat is cooked in an authentic pit it yields a lot of rich juices that never develop using the oven method. At my restaurant in New York we approximate this as follows: When the adobo (chile paste) is made, set aside 1 1/4 cup of the mixture and rub the meat with the rest. Cook as described below. When the meat is done, skim the fat from the pan juices and deglaze the roasting pan with 2 cups homemade chicken broth over medium-high heat, scraping up the browned bits. Stir in one 28- to 32-ounce can tomatoes, breaking them up with a spoon. Add the reserved adobo and simmer, stirring frequently, for about 30 minutes, or until reduced to about 4 cups. Let cool slightly and purée in a blender (working in batches as necessary) until smooth. Serve with the carved meat.

ingredients

  • 4 ounces guajillo chiles (about 16 large chiles), tops and seeds removed
  • 2 teaspoons cumin seeds
  • 1 teaspoon whole cloves, or 3/4 teaspoon ground
  • 10 allspice berries
  • 1/3 cup dried Oaxacan oregano or 1 tablespoon dried Mexican oregano, crumbled
  • 12 to 15 large sprigs fresh thyme (leaves only), or 2 teaspoons dried
  • 10 garlic cloves
  • 1 large onion, coarsely chopped
  • 1/2 cup cider vinegar
  • 1 teaspoon salt or to taste, plus additional for seasoning goat
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 16-pound goat, quartered, or 6 to 8 pounds lamb shoulder, bone in, trimmed
  • 1/2 to 3/4 ounce dried avocado leaves, about 30 large leaves

preparation

Wash and griddle-dry the chiles by the directions below. Place in a deep bowl and cover generously with boiling water. Let soak for at least 20 minutes.

Grind the cumin, cloves, allspice, oregano, and dried thyme (if using) together in an electric coffee or spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle.

Drain the soaked chiles. Working in batches as necessary, place them in a blender with the ground herbs and spices (add fresh thyme at this point if using), garlic, onion, vinegar, salt, and about 1/2 cup water (or enough to facilitate the action of the blades). Process to a smooth purée (about 3 minutes on high), stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides with a rubber spatula. With a wooden spoon or pusher, for the purée through a medium-mesh sieve into a bowl. It should have the consistency of a thick but still moist paste.

Season the pieces of goat or lamb with salt and pepper. Slather the seasoning paste all over the meat. Arrange in a large bowl (or any non-reactive container that’s large enough), cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate overnight or for at least 4 hours. Remove from the refrigerator about 2 hours before beginning the cooking, to let the meat come to room temperature.

Preheat the oven to 325°F.

Choose a deep roasting pan or baking dish large enough to hold the meat snugly. Scatter half of the avocado leaves across the bottom of the pan and arrange the meat on them. Scatter the remaining leaves over the meat. Cover the pan (wrapping very tightly with several layers of foil if there is no lid) and bake 6 to 7 hours (4 to 4 1/2 hours for the lamb). The meat should be almost falling off the bone.

notes:Griddle-Drying Remove and discard the tops and seeds of the chiles. I leave in the veins (the hottest part), but you can cut them away if you want to tone down the heat. Rinse the chiles under cold running water and shake off the excess moisture, but do not dry them. Heat a griddle or cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until a drop of water sizzles on contact. A few at a time, place the chiles on the griddle and let them heat, turning occasionally with tongs, just until any clinging moisture is evaporated and the aroma is released. Allow approximately 30 to 45 seconds in all per chile for most kinds, slightly less for guajillos (which are very thin-skinned). The chiles should just become dry, hot, and fragrant; do not allow them to start really roasting or they will have a terrible scorched flavor. Remove from the griddle as they are done.

‘L&HH’s’ Rich Dollaz Out of Jail after Ditching Child Support

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”Love & Hip Hop” star Rich Dollaz was headed back to a Five Guys restaurant in New Jersey – days after he was arrested at the venue and jailed because he owed $10,500 in unpaid child support.

According to TMZ, Dollaz was arrested Sunday night as he came out of Five Guys carrying a bag of burgers.

A rep for the reality TV star says the whole thing is a misunderstanding, and tells TMZ Dollaz had been trying to resolve the child support case:

Hudson County jail officials say Dollaz was released after paying his debt in full .. and walked out of jail a free — and hungry — man. He even took the time to take a pic with fellow inmate, Jason Rios, who was released at the same time.

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The rep tells us … Dollaz never even got to eat his expensive burgers — they were confiscated by cops — but he’s headed right back to Five Guys … so he can ketchup on what he missed.

 

J.Lo Talks Marc Anthony Divorce, Past Abuse in New Memoir ‘True Love’

Singer Jennifer Lopez performs onstage during We Can Survive 2014 at the Hollywood Bowl on October 24, 2014 in Los Angeles, California

People magazine has an excerpt from Jennifer Lopez’s forthcoming memoir, “True Love,” that recalls the day she revealed her marriage was over and the thoughts about relationships that followed.

The entertainer was on the set of a photo shoot in July 2011. At the time, she had just celebrated her seventh wedding anniversary (June 5), her twins Max and Emme were thriving and her latest single, “On the Floor,” had soared to number one around the world. But on the inside, Lopez was struggling with her relationship.

“In a blur of fear and panic, I looked at Benny [Medina] and my mother and blurted out the words: ‘I don’t think I can be with Marc anymore.’ Then I burst into tears,” Lopez writes. “It was out. The thing I feared more than anything in the world. I collapsed into their arms and began to sob.”

Lopez and Anthony publicly announced their DIVORCE on July 15, 2011. “Hardest. Day. Ever,” she summed up.

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In the year that followed, Lopez launched her Dance Again tour, on which she wanted to show the “truth about abusive relationships.”

J.Lo never says her seven-year marriage to Anthony was abusive, although she once called their relationship “very Sonny and Cher,” and also opens up about abuse in her past.

“I’ve never gotten a black eye or a busted lip, but I’ve been in relationships where I have felt abused in one way or another: mentally, emotionally, verbally,” she writes. “I know what it feels like for your soul to be diminished by the way your loved one is treating you.”

The singer’s list of exes include Diddy, Casper Smart, three ex-husbands Ojani Noa, Chris Judd and Anthony and a highly publicized engagement to Ben Affleck.

Lopez says it took her years to learn that abusive relationships fall on the shoulders of both partners. “Because every day that you don’t walk out that door, every day you accept things in your partner and in yourself, is a day that you’re saying it’s okay,” she writes.

“True Love” is due on Nov. 4.

 

Carmelo Anthony Pops Up on ‘Sons of Anarchy’ (Watch)

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NEW YORK KNICKS star Carmelo Anthony had somewhat of an opening act to tonight’s season opener against the Chicago Bulls.

On Tuesday night, he popped up unexpectedly on an episode of FX’s “Sons of Anarchy.”

He had one line in his one scene, but his “assist” in handing a knife to his crew member ended up with another character’s fingers being cut off.

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Kendra Wilkinson, Hank Baskett Renew Vows on ‘Marriage Boot Camp’ Finale

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Kendra Wilkinson has apparently forgiven her husband Hank Baskett for allegedly cheating with a transsexual model…because they have reportedly renewed their wedding vows, In Touch is reporting.

An insider close to reality TV show “Marriage Boot Camp” told the magazine that Baskett gives her a new wedding ring during the finale because she flushed her original one down the commode.

“Hank presented her with a wedding ring, a replica of the ring he gave Kendra when they got married that she flushed down the toilet after the cheating scandal broke,” an insider tells In Touch. “Then he asked her to renew their wedding vows — and she accepted.”

Not everyone on set agreed with Kendra’s decision to take him back. A few days before the nuptials, Hank failed a lie detector test regarding his cheating scandal.

“The cast was stunned when they exchanged vows. No one thought they were being honest with themselves,” the insider adds.

But Wilkinson wasn’t trying to hear it. She allegedly snapped at “Basketball Wives” star Tami Roman, who “told her to wake up about Hank,” the insider says. “Kendra lost it and yelled, ‘Don’t f— with me. I’m not a pushover.’”

 

Lamar Odom Refuses to Sign the Divorce Papers

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The Khloe Kardashian and Lamar Odom split-up drama is in the headlines again because Lam-Lam won’t sign the DIVORCE PAPERS.

According to People, Odom, 34, has yet to file his own response to her initial DIVORCE filing 10 months ago. In fact, the former Los Angeles Lakers star has reportedly not been seen or heard from in weeks.

“He needs to sign papers and he won’t,” a source says. “He disappears here and there, and she can’t find him. She just wants TO MOVE on.”

At this point, her options are limited. She can file a Request to Enter a Default, which means she would be able to get the DIVORCE without Lamar’s participation; or she can also file a Request for Dismissal, which would mean canceling the DIVORCE filing altogether.

Kardashian and Odom married in 2009, after a whirlwind month of dating. She filed for divorce last December after four years of marriage.

On an episode of “Keeping Up with the Kardashians” that aired in July, she openly alleged that Odom cheated on her.

“F**k your ring, you were wearing it when you were fu*king someone too,” she said, referring to reports that Lamar was still wearing his wedding ring and hoping for a reconciliation.

“Let me tell you something — last year on my birthday, I lied to everyone, because I had to lie and say I was with my husband, when in fact my husband was missing with another girl, OK?” she yells. “And I lied, and I gave up my BEYONCE TICKETS to Kendall, that’s how badly I was hiding. And I didn’t have a birthday, I was alone, and lied to everyone.”

 

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